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The following technical bulletins were published by AERA.


                                             Excessive Oil Consumption 
                                  on 1978-89 Chrysler Jet Valve Engines

AERA members have reported excessive oil consumption and spark plug fouling complaints on 1978-89 Chrysler jet valve engines.  These engines are manufactured for Chrysler Corporation by Mitsubishi Motor Corporation of Japan.

There are several possibilities for allowing oil to pass into the combustion chamber.  They are oil leaking past the valve stem seal or the jet valve body O-ring, or a worn jet valve body or valve stem.  Since oil can travel among the various air passages in the cylinder head casting, it is important to inspect all jet valves not just the cylinder that is indicated by a fouled spark plug.

Remove the jet valve assembly as indicated in the appropriate service manual and inspect the O-ring for nicks, cuts, tears or deformation.  Likewise, a brittle O-ring is not capable of sealing out lubricating oil.  The O-ring, Chrysler part #MD009786, should be replaced whenever the jet valve assembly is removed from the cylinder head.

Disassemble the jet valve assembly and inspect the valve stem seal for damage or deformation.  Chrysler recommends replacement of the complete assembly if the valve body or valve stem are worn.  Use Chrysler part #MD009440. 

Any oil residue or carbon must be removed from the jet valve passages before assembly.  See the appropriate OE or aftermarket manual for further information and torque values.

                                                                       The AERA Technical Committee


                                          Remanufactured Engine Caution For
                             1989-99 Mitsubishi 2.0L VIN E, F, R & U Engines

The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information regarding a remanufactured engine caution for 1989-99 Mitsubishi 2.0L VIN E, F, R & U engines. In some instances a technician may encounter an above-described engine that has been remanufactured by Mitsubishi. If so, correct head gasket selection and usage is critical during subsequent engine work.

Engines remanufactured for Mitsubishi dealerships have an additional thickness (.012"or .300 mm) head gasket installed to compensate for machining during rebuilding. Failure to re-install a similar gasket on a Mitsubishi remanufactured engine may result in an engine knock and eventual engine damage. All remanufactured engines for Mitsubishi are shipped with a yellow colored one-inch by two-inch sticker with identification numbers attached to the block. The head gasket is available under part number MD349347. Listed below are engines and identification numbers that require use of the thicker head gasket.

     Short Block Number      Car Model                                      Engine

          RMD136421            1989-92 Eclipse                     2.0L DOHC Turbo, VIN U
          RMD192471            1993-94 Eclipse                     2.0L DOHC Turbo, VIN F
          RMD314497            1995-97 Eclipse                     2.0L DOHC Turbo, VIN F
          RMD330756            1998-99 Eclipse                     2.0L DOHC Turbo, VIN F
          RMD136420            1989-92 Eclipse & Galant     2.0L DOHC, VIN R
          RMD178413            1991-92 Galant                       2.0L DOHC, VIN R
          RMD192470            1993-94 Eclipse                     2.0L DOHC, VIN E
          RMD192474            1993 Galant                            2.0L DOHC, VIN E

                                                                                 The AERA Technical Committee


                                     Oil Filter Service Caution On
                                  1988 Chrysler 3.0L (181 CID) Engines

When servicing the oil filter on 1988 Chrysler 3.0L (181 CID) engines be sure to use an oil filter designed for this engine.

Although the engine is manufactured for Chrysler Corporation by Mitsubishi, it does not use the same filter as the Mitsubishi- built 2.6L 4 cylinder engine.  the 4 cylinder engine's oil filter base incorporates a 20 mm metric thread, whereas the V6 engines use a .750 American standard thread.

The recommended oil filters can be either Mitsubishi #MD108063, Mopar #4105409, or an aftermarket equivalent.

Using the wrong oil filter may result in filter separation from the engine and cause severe engine damage.

                                                                           The AERA Technical Committee


                                       Valve Stem Seal Identification On
                                 2000-02 Mitsubishi 3.0L VIN H Engines

AERA members have reported a difficulty correctly identifying valve stem seals on 2000-02 Mitsubishi VIN H engines. To properly identify the two different valve stem seals, Mitsubishi has color-coded the seals.

Upon removing the valve seals from the packaging, there may not be any identification sheet with the seals. This leaves the machinist wondering which seal goes on the intake valve and which one on the exhaust valve. To correctly install these seals, the one with charcoal gray identification color goes on the exhaust and the one with the green identification color goes on the intake. 
            Color                      Location                                  Part #

      Charcoal Gray             Exhaust                                  MD184303
           Green                      Intake                                     MD307342

AERA is currently unaware of an aftermarket supplier of the valve stem seals mentioned above.
                                                                      The AERA Technical Committee


                                           Timing Belt Installation On
                                       1990 Chrysler 2.2L DOHC Engines

The 1990 Chrysler 2.2L DOHC (double overhead camshaft) engine is manufactured jointly by Chrysler and Mitsubishi for service in Chrysler Laser, Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse automobiles. In this engine, both camshafts are driven by a single timing belt while one of the two balance (silent) shafts is driven by its own timed belt.  The second balance shaft is driven indirectly by the
timing belt and oil pump.

It is necessary to install the belt that drives the balance shaft before installing the belt that drives the camshafts.

1)   Rotate the crankshaft and balance shaft to align the timing marks and mount the belt (Figure 1).  

2)   Temporarily mount the tensioner pulley and rotate it toward the belt to remove any slack (Figure 2).  

3)   Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt in such a way that no additional tension is placed on the belt.  The proper amount of tension permits a belt deflection of .200-.280 measured opposite the tensioner assembly (Figure 3).  Repeat if proper tension is not achieved.  Torque the bolt to 31-40 lbs.ft.

The following steps outline the recommended procedure for installing the actual timing belt.  It should be noted that the timing belt tension once set during installation is maintained by engine oil pressure through an auto tensioner.

4)   Inspect the auto tensioner for leaks and measure the protrusion of the tensioning rod.  If leaks are noticed or the rod protrudes more than .470, replace the auto tensioner. Should the auto tensioner's rod be fully extended, but within specifications, it is necessary to push it back into the housing
before installation.

5)   This can be accomplished by a soft jaw vice (Figure 4).  If the plug at the bottom of the tensioner protrudes, protect it from direct contact with the vice by surrounding it with a thick plain washer.

6)   Slowly push the rod back into the adjuster until the set hole (A in Figure 5) is aligned with the hole in the adjuster body (B).  Insert a .055 wire into the set hole to fix the rod in position.

7)   Mount the tensioner pulley onto the tensioner arm (Figure
6), locating the pin holes in the tensioner pulley shaft to the left of the center bolt.  Do not remove the wire inserted in step 6.

8)   This engine uses the same camshaft sprocket for either camshaft.  Each sprocket is therefore fitted with two timing marks (Figure 7).  When the sprocket is used to drive the exhaust valve camshaft, use the timing mark on the right with the dowel pin hole on top.  For the intake valve camshaft use the timing mark on the left with the dowel pin hole on top.  Turn both sprockets until the dowel pins are facing up and the timing marks are aligned with the cylinder head (Figure 8).

9)   Align the crankshaft and oil pump sprocket timing marks (Figure 9).  Since the oil pump sprocket also drives the second, lower balance shaft, be sure to verify the position of the balance shaft.  This can be accomplished by removing a threaded plug on the side of the cylinder block and inserting a .310 shank Philips screwdriver into the hole (Figure 10).  If the screwdriver can be inserted at least 2.400, the timing of the balance shaft is correct.  Otherwise rotate the oil pump drive sprocket one revolution and retest.  The screwdriver should remain in the block until the timing belt installation is complete.
10)  Install the timing belt around all of the sprockets as indicated (Figure 11).  Be sure to maintain the alignment of the timing marks.  Gently raise the tensioner pulley so the belt does not sag and temporarily tighten the center bolt.  

11)  Remove the Philips screwdriver inserted into the block in step 9.  Rotate the crankshaft 1/4 turn counter-clockwise.  Then turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring #1 cylinder to top dead center (TDC).  Insert special tool #MD998752, or equivalent, into a torque wrench capable of reading a range of 0 to 2.2 lbs.ft.
(Figure 12).

12)  Holding the tensioner pulley with the special tool and torque wrench, tighten the center bolt to 14-20 lbs.ft.  The torque wrench holding the tensioner pulley via the special tool should not exceed readings of 2.2 lbs.ft.

13)  Remove a rubber plug from the right hand side of the timing cover and screw special tool #MD998738 into the left engine support bracket (Figure 13) until it makes contact with the tensioner arm.  Screw the tool in further to apply pressure against the tensioner arm before removing the wire from the auto
tensioner.  Remove the tool.

14)  Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions in the clockwise direction and permit the engine to rest for approximately 15 minutes.  

15)  Measure the amount the tensioner rod is protruding, from of the auto tensioner body (Figure 14).  The recommended protrusion is .150-180.  If this is not achieved, repeat steps 11 through 15 and remeasure.

16)  If it is not possible to measure the amount of tensioner rod protrusion directly, a substitute method is available.  Reinstall the special tool #MD998738 until contact is made with the tensioner arm.  It should take 2.5 to 3 additional turns of the special tool to fully push the tensioner rod back into the auto
tensioner.  Again, if this specification is not met, repeat steps
11 through 15 and retest.

                                     The AERA Technical Committee


                                               Burned Jet Valves On
                                  Chrysler (Mitsubishi) 2.6L Engines

The AERA Technical Committee offers the following consideration for Chrysler 2.6L engines with repeated jet valve burning problems.  This problem is most prevalent with engines that utilize hydraulic lash compensators (HLC).  Reported failures have usually been shortly after cylinder head installation or
compensators replacement.

Unless the jet valves are readjusted after the engine has reached operating temperature, improper clearances will result.  The correct lash adjustment of .010 (.254mm) can only be achieved of the HLC plunger is in its operating location.  If the jet valve is adjusted before that point, or on the bench, operating oil pressure will change the previous clearance.  Insufficient clearance may hold the jet valve off the seat and eventually burn it.

                                                                   The AERA Technical Committee

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